The design of a Big Twin's Powertrain is non-unitized. And that is, the gearbox is attached apart from the engine, meaning the two should work side by side so that it can send power. That's where the primary drive, found in that huge metal case near the rider's left foot, takes into action.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Most of the action comes about around the inspection window that's accessed by detaching the plate secured on by four screws. You'll need a ruler to make the sizing and a couple of basic hand tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, loosen the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt just a few turns and rotate the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or downwards to loosen up.
An excellent time to inspect and adjust the main chain is when you ought to drain and change the primary case oil. Harley highly suggests its multipurpose manufactured oil, however, if you do have a desired brand that's been designed for the main drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you decide is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's parts, so makes use of the time to visually inspect them for corrosion. Take a look at the chain's rollers to see if they are getting total oiling, and check the adjuster shoe for cracks and the like. Inspecting and adjusting the main chain is quick and easy, when you're done you can have one less component to worry about on your next ride. Be sure you to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" socket (deep) Ratchet Extended Ratchet Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Basic routine service like adjusting the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when changing the primary oil. Make sure the motorcycle is secured in an upright position when you start.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Allow the used primary fluid to empty in the pan. Once emptied, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Use a T27 Torx socket to take out the 4 mounting bolts that secure the primary inspection plate in position. It's a good idea to change the inspection plate gasket before you install the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can examine the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for signs of damage. With the transmission in neutral, spin the engine a little bit several times so you can see the whole chain.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. One is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The variation in the 2 on the chain's tightest point is definitely the chain's slack.
7. Try a 9/16" deep socket to fine tune the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set up the free play from " and 7/8". After you have tightened the nut again, measure the slack again just to be sure you have set up the right amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, check the adjuster shoe that's pushing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, the O-rings are missing. To make sure it is sealed, apply a little pipe sealant around the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the right amount for your bike's model and year.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Most of the action comes about around the inspection window that's accessed by detaching the plate secured on by four screws. You'll need a ruler to make the sizing and a couple of basic hand tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, loosen the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt just a few turns and rotate the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or downwards to loosen up.
An excellent time to inspect and adjust the main chain is when you ought to drain and change the primary case oil. Harley highly suggests its multipurpose manufactured oil, however, if you do have a desired brand that's been designed for the main drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you decide is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's parts, so makes use of the time to visually inspect them for corrosion. Take a look at the chain's rollers to see if they are getting total oiling, and check the adjuster shoe for cracks and the like. Inspecting and adjusting the main chain is quick and easy, when you're done you can have one less component to worry about on your next ride. Be sure you to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" socket (deep) Ratchet Extended Ratchet Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Basic routine service like adjusting the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when changing the primary oil. Make sure the motorcycle is secured in an upright position when you start.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Allow the used primary fluid to empty in the pan. Once emptied, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Use a T27 Torx socket to take out the 4 mounting bolts that secure the primary inspection plate in position. It's a good idea to change the inspection plate gasket before you install the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can examine the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for signs of damage. With the transmission in neutral, spin the engine a little bit several times so you can see the whole chain.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. One is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The variation in the 2 on the chain's tightest point is definitely the chain's slack.
7. Try a 9/16" deep socket to fine tune the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set up the free play from " and 7/8". After you have tightened the nut again, measure the slack again just to be sure you have set up the right amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, check the adjuster shoe that's pushing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, the O-rings are missing. To make sure it is sealed, apply a little pipe sealant around the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the right amount for your bike's model and year.
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Bear in mind it is very important to ensure that you cruise with your motorcycle with caution. Ensure that you use real carbon fiber helmets.
