Maintenance and Install Guidelines
Replacing spark plugs really should be nearly as easy as changing lamps, but it's not. Bulb changing doesn't require using a socket wrench or gapping utilities. An extended socket that fits a plug isn't a correct plug socket. A spark plug socket has two things that differentiate it from a deep socket.
First is a rubberized foam insert that pads the spark plug while it's inside the socket. The second thing is the hexagonal space around the top of the socket. The hexagonal area provides the wrench to fit on the socket if there is not enough clearance for a ratchet. Motorcycles usually have plenty of space for torque wrenches or ratchet, and yet the capability to support a wrench to the socket comes in handy for motorcycles with Fat Bob tanks and some auto applications (like a Corvette having headers).
For many decades there were two standard types of plug sockets. Shovelheads and 80" Big Twin Evolution engines need a 3/4" spark plug socket, and Evo Sportsters and Twin Cams need a 5/8" one. And then some thing occurred: spark plugs that required an 11/16" socket where available on the market, and 11/16" plug sockets are often difficult to find. We've heard individuals put a short length of foam pipe wrap (the product that's often used to insulate hot water pipes) inside of an 11/16" deep socket to use by their own. This method works and is an inexpensive solution to improvise a tool for the person that doesn't replace a lot of 11/16" plugs.
Spark Plug Gaps
Plug spacing is essential in getting accurate firing. A lot of people assume spark plugs are already gapped at the factory, which is not often true. And yet even when plugs are pre-gapped, activity when being shipped can make the space quite a few thousandths of an inch smaller. Spacing a plug is not too difficult. What in only needs is the ideal tools, quite a few practice, and a bit of dedication.
To begin with, feeler gauge and pliers usually are not the right tools. My favored spacing tool is a good, old wire-loop tool where every single wire loop stands for a different gap size, and also the metal tabs accommodate distinctive ground electrodes. Our least favorite is the disc with the ramp around the perimeter. One problem with the disc style is that it puts stress on the core electrode when gapping. The other issue tends to be that the other side of the ground electrode may end up a bit further out from the center electrode. Screamin' Edge and SplitFire spark plugs, 1 prong of the ground electrode could be a bit higher than the other.
Observing three simple guidelines will assist you to correctly gap plugs. Initially, do not bend the core electrode. Next, never ever flex the ground electrode laterally. Work with the gapping tool to carefully move the end of the ground electrode near or farther away from the tip of the core electrode. Finally, examine the gap by moving the appropriate wire loop through the gap. The spacing is correct when you sense a slight amount of friction when the wire moves through the gap.
Replacing Spark Plugs
Just before removing a spark plug, ensure that the engine has cooled down, and then start using a burst of compressed air to blow dust and dirt from the small area around the plug. A ratchet and a spark plug socket are the suggested utilities for this particular portion of the task. Once carefully taking out the spark plug wire by drawing on the boot, not the wire, I remove the aged spark plug with a spark plug socket and ratchet by turning them counterclockwise.
As soon as the unwanted and old plugs are out, it is time to put in the properly spaced plugs. Start out by putting a bit of lube (anti-seize) on the threads for each plug. Current Harley Davidsons have steel shell spark plugs and aluminum heads. Repetitive heating and cooling of the heads may cause a chemical reaction between the aluminum cylinder head and steel plug shell. This results in an effect like it has been welded.
Soon after applying the lubricant (anti-seize) around the spark plug threads, begin turning the spark plug tighten manner to the head using your fingers rather than using a spark plug socket or ratchet. A best practice that lessens the possibility of getting a spark plug that is cross threaded and the pricey damage that may occur. Once the brand new plug is finger tight, reach for the plug tools, the torque spec for plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-lbs., so split the main difference and opt for 15 ft-lbs.
That way, if the torque wrench is a bit off with no reason in mind, you''ll still remain within the recommended spec. Is the right torque critical for plug installation? Basically, yes! In cases where the spark plug is a bit loose, high temperature transfer to the cylinder head may be minimized, and then the plug can overheat. When a plug remains not tight enough, it could find its way out of the head due to vibration and combustion pressure. And that's very bad. Poorly tightened spark plugs have been held responsible for combustion chamber build ups finding their way into the threads of the spark plug hole.
At the other extreme, turning plugs excessively tight will cause other problems. If a spark plug is over tightened, it's likely that it'll be tougher to remove. Over tightening may also grind the gasket within a seat plug. Extreme over tightening can damage the threads within the head and has always been the cause of deterioration.
Without a torque wrench, make the new spark plug finger tight and utilize a ratchet to carefully tighten the spark plug another quarter to half a turn. This method is certainly a lot less precise as compared to having a torque wrench, but it will give you anywhere in the 11-18 ft-lbs. limit.
This year, bike runs are set to kick off all throughout the US. Multitudes of riders will be assembling for one week of celebration all expressing their love for bikes. You'll hear many tales and building tricks to converse about with brand new buddies as you run the days with the rally. Make sure to ride safe and wear the needed safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets. Good luck and have a wonderful ride.
Replacing spark plugs really should be nearly as easy as changing lamps, but it's not. Bulb changing doesn't require using a socket wrench or gapping utilities. An extended socket that fits a plug isn't a correct plug socket. A spark plug socket has two things that differentiate it from a deep socket.
First is a rubberized foam insert that pads the spark plug while it's inside the socket. The second thing is the hexagonal space around the top of the socket. The hexagonal area provides the wrench to fit on the socket if there is not enough clearance for a ratchet. Motorcycles usually have plenty of space for torque wrenches or ratchet, and yet the capability to support a wrench to the socket comes in handy for motorcycles with Fat Bob tanks and some auto applications (like a Corvette having headers).
For many decades there were two standard types of plug sockets. Shovelheads and 80" Big Twin Evolution engines need a 3/4" spark plug socket, and Evo Sportsters and Twin Cams need a 5/8" one. And then some thing occurred: spark plugs that required an 11/16" socket where available on the market, and 11/16" plug sockets are often difficult to find. We've heard individuals put a short length of foam pipe wrap (the product that's often used to insulate hot water pipes) inside of an 11/16" deep socket to use by their own. This method works and is an inexpensive solution to improvise a tool for the person that doesn't replace a lot of 11/16" plugs.
Spark Plug Gaps
Plug spacing is essential in getting accurate firing. A lot of people assume spark plugs are already gapped at the factory, which is not often true. And yet even when plugs are pre-gapped, activity when being shipped can make the space quite a few thousandths of an inch smaller. Spacing a plug is not too difficult. What in only needs is the ideal tools, quite a few practice, and a bit of dedication.
To begin with, feeler gauge and pliers usually are not the right tools. My favored spacing tool is a good, old wire-loop tool where every single wire loop stands for a different gap size, and also the metal tabs accommodate distinctive ground electrodes. Our least favorite is the disc with the ramp around the perimeter. One problem with the disc style is that it puts stress on the core electrode when gapping. The other issue tends to be that the other side of the ground electrode may end up a bit further out from the center electrode. Screamin' Edge and SplitFire spark plugs, 1 prong of the ground electrode could be a bit higher than the other.
Observing three simple guidelines will assist you to correctly gap plugs. Initially, do not bend the core electrode. Next, never ever flex the ground electrode laterally. Work with the gapping tool to carefully move the end of the ground electrode near or farther away from the tip of the core electrode. Finally, examine the gap by moving the appropriate wire loop through the gap. The spacing is correct when you sense a slight amount of friction when the wire moves through the gap.
Replacing Spark Plugs
Just before removing a spark plug, ensure that the engine has cooled down, and then start using a burst of compressed air to blow dust and dirt from the small area around the plug. A ratchet and a spark plug socket are the suggested utilities for this particular portion of the task. Once carefully taking out the spark plug wire by drawing on the boot, not the wire, I remove the aged spark plug with a spark plug socket and ratchet by turning them counterclockwise.
As soon as the unwanted and old plugs are out, it is time to put in the properly spaced plugs. Start out by putting a bit of lube (anti-seize) on the threads for each plug. Current Harley Davidsons have steel shell spark plugs and aluminum heads. Repetitive heating and cooling of the heads may cause a chemical reaction between the aluminum cylinder head and steel plug shell. This results in an effect like it has been welded.
Soon after applying the lubricant (anti-seize) around the spark plug threads, begin turning the spark plug tighten manner to the head using your fingers rather than using a spark plug socket or ratchet. A best practice that lessens the possibility of getting a spark plug that is cross threaded and the pricey damage that may occur. Once the brand new plug is finger tight, reach for the plug tools, the torque spec for plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-lbs., so split the main difference and opt for 15 ft-lbs.
That way, if the torque wrench is a bit off with no reason in mind, you''ll still remain within the recommended spec. Is the right torque critical for plug installation? Basically, yes! In cases where the spark plug is a bit loose, high temperature transfer to the cylinder head may be minimized, and then the plug can overheat. When a plug remains not tight enough, it could find its way out of the head due to vibration and combustion pressure. And that's very bad. Poorly tightened spark plugs have been held responsible for combustion chamber build ups finding their way into the threads of the spark plug hole.
At the other extreme, turning plugs excessively tight will cause other problems. If a spark plug is over tightened, it's likely that it'll be tougher to remove. Over tightening may also grind the gasket within a seat plug. Extreme over tightening can damage the threads within the head and has always been the cause of deterioration.
Without a torque wrench, make the new spark plug finger tight and utilize a ratchet to carefully tighten the spark plug another quarter to half a turn. This method is certainly a lot less precise as compared to having a torque wrench, but it will give you anywhere in the 11-18 ft-lbs. limit.
This year, bike runs are set to kick off all throughout the US. Multitudes of riders will be assembling for one week of celebration all expressing their love for bikes. You'll hear many tales and building tricks to converse about with brand new buddies as you run the days with the rally. Make sure to ride safe and wear the needed safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets. Good luck and have a wonderful ride.
About the Author:
Keep in mind it is vital to be sure you drive your motorbike with safety. Make certain you use real carbon fiber helmets.
